The Fam Islands in Raja Ampat are known for their stunning coral reefs, unique underwater landscapes, and some of the richest biodiversity in the region. In this piece, I’ll highlight three of my favorite dive sites in the Fam Islands. Located in the western part of the Dampier Strait, the area is home to several world-class dive spots, teeming with marine life and, in my opinion, equally as impressive as the renowned sites near Kri Island, such as Cape Kri and Sardine Reef.

The coral reefs in the Fam Islands are vibrant, healthy, and incredibly diverse, making this area a true paradise for coral lovers. While diving here is generally suitable for a range of skill levels, it’s best appreciated by experienced divers with good buoyancy control who are mindful of protecting the fragile reef. Whether you visit by liveaboard or choose a local homestay, the Fam Islands are well worth adding to your Raja Ampat itinerary. As a bonus, the islands also feature one of the region’s most iconic viewpoints—Piaynemo.

Let’s begin with the most famous dive site in the Fam Islands: Melissa’s Garden. Discovered in the 1990s by diving pioneer Max Ammer, the site was named after his daughter. Melissa’s Garden is renowned for having one of the most breathtaking coral gardens in central Raja Ampat. The reef itself is expansive, with the shallow top section—ranging from 5 to 8 meters deep—being particularly spectacular. Here, vast fields of colorful staghorn corals stretch out in every direction, in hues of blue, green, and brown, bustling with damselfish darting in and out like a living dream.

The site is also a reliable spot to see Napoleon wrasse—the largest bony tropical fish in the ocean—gracefully swimming through the reef. These majestic fish are always a highlight. On the sloping sides of the reef, you’ll find vibrant coral collages supporting a wide variety of tropical fish species. If conditions align, you might even witness trevally hunting schools of fusiliers—an exhilarating scene and one of my personal favorites to watch underwater. Melissa’s Garden truly feels like an underwater Eden and stands out as one of my top dive sites in all of Raja Ampat.

Next on my list is a lesser-known but equally impressive site: Galaxy. This remote pinnacle reef lies in the open ocean and is nothing short of dazzling. The top of the reef ranges from about 12 to 17 meters deep and is relatively narrow, with sloping sides that descend to depths of 30 to 40 meters. The topography is fascinating, and the marine life is abundant. Schools of barracuda, surgeonfish, sweetlips, and fusiliers are commonly seen here, along with trevally that often hunt through the reef.

Napoleon wrasse are also frequently spotted cruising the site, and with a bit of luck, you may even see them hunting alongside the trevally. Such predatory behavior is not uncommon in this part of Raja Ampat. The coral is healthy and colorful, making Galaxy a rewarding site to explore. Due to potentially strong currents, this dive is best suited for more experienced divers.

Finally, we come to Fam Wall, my third favorite site in the area. This wall dive features some of the most beautiful coral formations I’ve seen in the entire Dampier Strait. The dive begins with a stretch of soft corals, sea fans, and large gorgonians, all home to an array of tropical fish. At around 23 meters deep, you have a chance to spot the tiny but exquisite pygmy seahorse, perfectly camouflaged among the sea fans.

The wall is richly adorned with both hard and soft corals, creating vivid underwater scenes that feel like works of art. While you may not encounter large schools of fish here, the sheer variety and health of the coral make it unforgettable. Toward the end of the dive, at a shallow depth of 3 to 5 meters, you’ll come across a beautiful coral garden at the top of the wall. Under the right conditions, schools of fish such as batfish, drummerfish, and barracuda gather in this area, creating a picturesque end to the dive.

These are my favorite dive sites in the Fam Islands—each one rich with life, color, and beauty. The Fam Islands truly offer some of the best diving experiences in Raja Ampat, a region already famed for its underwater wonders.

Whales are the largest animals on Earth. These gentle giants roam freely through every ocean, forming deep social bonds and displaying remarkable emotional intelligence—much like us. But despite their size and strength, they face mounting threats. One of the most devastating is something entirely human: boat strikes. As global marine traffic increases, an estimated 20,000 whales are killed every year by fast-moving vessels.

Atauro Island, just off the coast of Timor-Leste, is a known migratory corridor for several whale species, including blue whales, sperm whales, and orcas. These incredible creatures typically pass through the region from September to December. So when I visited Atauro in June of 2024, I wasn’t expecting to see a whale—let alone witness one in distress.

It had been a beautiful morning of diving. The visibility was crystal clear, and the coral reefs around Atauro were as pristine as ever. On our return to the dive resort, about 20 minutes from shore, we noticed a local boat crowded with people pointing toward the island’s rocky cliffside. At first, I thought they were just joking or mistaken. But our dive guide quickly confirmed—it was indeed a whale.

What made this even more surprising was the time of year. It was June, well before peak whale season. As we moved closer, we identified the whale as a pygmy blue whale, a rare and majestic creature not commonly seen at this time. But the joy of the sighting was short-lived. The whale appeared injured, possibly from a boat strike, and was resting motionless near the cliffs in shallow water.

We wanted to help. Our team considered towing it back out to deeper water, but the tide was too low. There was simply no way to move such a massive animal. As we assessed the situation, more locals began gathering. Some swam out to the whale, and heartbreakingly, a few kids even climbed onto its back. It was difficult to witness—this intelligent, but we could not do anything.

Still, I managed to capture some footage of the whale and the surrounding moment. A screenshot from that video is shared above.

The experience left me deeply unsettled. Here was a sentient, emotionally aware creature likely injured by human activity—forced into shallows by pain or disorientation, helpless in the very world it’s meant to rule. We often forget: the ocean is their home, not ours. If we don’t act with care and awareness, we threaten the very beings that make these waters so extraordinary.

Later that afternoon, we returned to check on the whale. To our relief, it was gone. The tide had risen significantly, and we believe the whale either freed itself or was helped back to deeper water by the local community. Back at the dive resort, the news spread quickly. Everyone was relieved to hear it had escaped—though we were all left wondering whether it would survive its injuries.

The wounds it carried—likely caused by a high-speed boat—were severe. Sadly, this kind of injury is not uncommon. Without stronger regulations on vessel speeds and marine traffic near migratory routes, these incidents will only continue.

I’m sharing this story in hopes that it raises awareness about an often-overlooked issue. We must respect the oceans and the incredible life they hold. These animals are not obstacles or entertainment—they are a vital part of our planet’s balance. If we are to coexist, we must do so with empathy, responsibility, and reverence.

Let this encounter be a reminder: we are only visitors in their world. It’s our duty to protect it.

Raja Ampat is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 islands spread across a vast distance. No matter where you go, you’re immersed in extraordinary island life—lush forests, stunning beaches, and a sense of untouched beauty that makes Raja Ampat truly special. You can’t go wrong wherever you choose to visit.

Because it spans such a large area, some regions of Raja Ampat have gained global recognition for their uniqueness. One such place is Wayag, located in the far north of the archipelago. It’s a breathtaking series of limestone islands that look like something out of a dream.

Ever since I first came to Raja Ampat in 2023, I had dreamed of visiting Wayag. But being so remote and far from Kri Island—where I usually stay due to its proximity to prime dive sites—it’s always been a challenge to organize a trip there, especially with other guests. Fortunately, in December 2024, I finally got the opportunity. A group of us, all staying at the same homestay on Kri, decided to make the trip together. I was beyond excited.

I had heard from others how unforgettable Wayag was, and I hoped to capture its beauty through my photography. The island group is best known for its surreal rock formations and a protected beach where blacktip reef sharks swim gracefully close to shore—this was what I looked forward to the most.

The boat ride from Kri to Wayag took around 4.5 hours. We departed at 9 a.m., stopping once at Manyaifun to pick up supplies before crossing the equator. Arriving in Wayag that afternoon felt like a dream come true. From the boat, we could already see the iconic rock islands rising from turquoise waters.

Our first stop was Shark Point Beach, and from the moment we approached the dock, we saw blacktip reef sharks cruising in the shallows. I grabbed my camera and fins and rushed to the beach. In just 3 feet of water, the sharks were swimming calmly, completely unbothered by our presence. These sleek, beautiful animals were mesmerizing.

The sharks stay near the beach mainly because they are fed by tour groups. While some people disapprove of shark feeding, I see it differently—it keeps them protected and draws attention to shark conservation. Indonesia has the largest shark fishing industry in the world, and yet Raja Ampat is a shark sanctuary. Since 2007, after full protection was established, shark populations have made an impressive recovery here.

I spent about an hour in the water with the sharks before more tourists arrived. Since no one had been feeding them earlier, I got to witness more natural behavior. I captured some decent shots, but I wasn’t fully satisfied—yet.

After snorkeling, we enjoyed a beachside lunch. What made our trip extra special was that Chris, who organized it, arranged for us to camp overnight on the beach—something very few people get to do in Wayag. This allowed for incredible photography opportunities, especially in the golden hours with no other groups around.

After lunch, we hiked to one of Wayag’s famous viewpoints. The boat ride there took about 20 minutes, followed by a steep climb up a sharp limestone path. I brought only my mirrorless camera. One of the guests, Tyler, brought his drone and later shared stunning footage and photos with me.

The view from the top was unlike anything I’ve ever seen—a panoramic vista of jagged green islands dotting the turquoise sea. It looked like something out of a sci-fi movie. I snapped a few shots while soaking it all in.

Later, we visited a nearby snorkel site, though the visibility wasn’t great due to murky water. Still, the surrounding views were beautiful. We returned to Shark Point Beach around 4 p.m., and all other tour boats had already left, giving us the beach to ourselves.

One of the crew began feeding the sharks again, and I quickly got in the water. This time, I managed to capture some incredible close-up shots of blacktips swirling in the sunlight. The golden hour light made everything glow, and I created some of my favorite shark images ever. I even encountered a friendly green sea turtle, who allowed me to snap a perfect over-the-back photo as it swam by.

That evening, we pitched our tents. The sunset was beautiful, and dinner was served at 8:30 p.m.—grilled giant trevally with rice and vegetables. Afterward, we sat on the beach, stargazing.

The night sky in Wayag was the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. Free from light pollution, the stars shone in all directions. Shooting stars streaked above us, and we identified constellations under the glowing sky. Inspired, I grabbed my headlamp and camera and walked to the jetty to shoot long exposure astrophotography. The results were stunning—definitely my best night sky photo to date. I even invited a fellow guest to join in the shot.

The next morning, we woke early, packed up, and enjoyed a simple breakfast of pancakes and jam. I took advantage of the quiet morning to fly my DJI Mini 3 Pro drone, capturing sweeping shots of the islands and top-down views of the sharks cruising the shore. I love using my drone for this—it offers a bird’s-eye view of places most people never see.

On our way back to Kri, we stopped for lunch at Yef Mat, a small island near Manyaifun. While the crew prepared food, I snorkeled along the vibrant reef and took some cool split shots of the coral and sky. After lunch, we cruised the final stretch back to Kri, watching the incredible scenery drift by.

This trip was everything I hoped for and more. I captured photos I’ll cherish forever, and I finally crossed Wayag off my bucket list. It was an adventure I’ll never forget.

Few places on our planet offer such incredible diving. Raja Ampat is now a diving mecca. Known around the world by many passionate divers. It lies at the crossroads of two oceans, the Indian and Pacific oceans. Because of this, you have a combination of marine species from two different oceans at the birds head of west Papua.  This has created a place where Raja Ampat offers the most biodiverse coral reef ecosystem on our planet. This has enabled the discovery of unique dive sites throughout the archipelago. In this specific post, we will be covering three of my favorite dive sites in Central Raja Ampat, specifically in the Dampier Strait. A place that offers some of the best diving in all of Raja Ampat and arguably the world. Since biodiversity is so high in Raja Ampat, there are many different ways to be mesmerized, with a wide range of species on display, from nudibranchs to Manta rays. The topography is also diverse, offering something different for everyone.

With such a wide selection of dive sites, it’s hard to pick just three that I like more than the others, because on any given day, any dive site in Raja Ampat can offer an awe-inspiring and even life-changing experience.  To start, to pick one of the most extraordinary dive sites, I would choose Blue Magic after a few incredible dives earlier this year. Blue Magic is my favorite dive site in all of Raja Ampat. The magic is in the name, and it lives up to the hype. Around a 20-minute boat ride from Kri island lies a pinnacle in the middle of the ocean, which is covered in soft and hard corals. Not too beautiful, but unique topography.

The top reef is between 7-8 meters while it reaches a bottom of around 40m all around. The reef is a truly special place where you can see Pelagic life. When the conditions are right, it is a cleaning station for oceanic manta rays. They come on top of the reef to get cleaned by cleaner wrasse fish. Oceanic manta rays are super special as some can reach nine meters in length. The ones that visit Blue Magic vary in size, and Raja Ampat has a healthy population that visits from around October to April. The largest I have seen while diving at Blue magic was around 7 meters in length. These animals are playful and curious as ever, and I managed to capture a lot of fantastic footage showing off their behavior. You can witness many together at once,, and on a single div,e there were a total of nine I witnessed getting cleaned and playfully interacting with each other. 

Other than oceanic manta rays, you can witness different species of sharks such as the gray reef shark, blacktip, whitetip and the native tassled wobbegong shark. Schools of different fish can be seen as well when conditions are right, including jackfish, surgeon fish, and barracuda. When you dive at Blue Magic, you never know how special it will be, and it is on top of my list for the best wildlife encounters in Central Raja Ampat. 

Like I said before it’s hard just to pick three of my favorite dive sites in Raja Ampat, but for my second choice, I have to go with Sardine reef. This dive site is thrilling and for all marine life enthusiasts. Sardine reef is a sloping reef in the middle of the ocean the top is between 3-5 meters and the slope reaches a max depth of 30 meters. It is full of impressive hard and soft coral boomies. What makes Sardine reef so special is the fact that it is a hunting ground for several different species. Napoleon wrasse, trevally, and sharks all use Sardine reef as a hunting ground. Napoleon wrasse and trevally work together to sniff out and hunt fish in the reef, which is always a very special thing to witness. Where sardine reef gets it’s name is from all the hundreds of fusiliers that hang out in the blue above the reef. This includes a few different species of fusilier, including blue streak, blue and yellow and yellowtail. These fish get hunted by giant and bluefin trevally, which chase them around the reef—causing massive movements in the water, it is simply spectacular. I managed to catch a few impressive moments on camera! 

The reef has some of the best biodiversity in all of Raja Ampat. It has a famous school of batfish. These fish, during the right tide, hang out above the reef in the shallower section. It is home to many different species of fish. It can be simply amazing to see the biodiversity and beauty it offers. Sardine Reef is simply a action-packed show with many things to see. It is way too thrilling to get bored. When the conditions are right, some can say it could be one of the best dives you will ever experience.  

For my last selection is one of the most famous dive sites in all of Raja Ampat. It is also probably one of the most well known dive sites in the world. Cape Kri, this is a dive site known for having the greatest coral reef biodiversity in the world. On a single dive, a scientist counted 374 different species of reef fish. Simply incredible. The reef is at the top of Kri Island where there is a flat reef section that goes into a sloping reef. The top of the reef is between 3 and 5 meters, while the sloping section goes down all the way to 40 meters. At Cape Kri, you never know what you’re going to see. In the blue, you can witness gray reef sharks swimming back and forth, and if you’re lucky, even passing over the reef. I have been able to photograph and film many different species that inhabit the reef. It is  truly a special dive site with a combination of stunning soft and hard corals on the sloping section and on the top of the reef, nice hard coral cover

The biodiversity at Cape Kri is pretty amazing. Different species of schools of fish can be seen passing by and even hanging out at Cape kri. This includes surgeonfish, trevally, snapper, barracuda, and other species. What makes it special as well is at 40 meters you can witness a resident school of sweetlips. The school is pretty large and you can see different species of sweetlips within the school.  This depth could be dangerous, so it is important to listen to your dive computer and follow a safe dive profile.

The sloping section of the reef is full of surprises, as Napoleon wrasse, blacktip and white tip reef sharks can also be seen commonly cruising over the reef. And if you are lucky, you can witness large dog-toothed tuna passing by in the blue. And as of recently, when I dived Cape Kri this year, I had several occurrences where I witnessed a large eagle ray, quite beautiful.  On the top section of the reef, it can be very exciting. You never know what you can see. Sometimes you can see large schools of fusiliers being hunted by giant trevally and a resident school of jackfish that love to hang out.  Cape Kri truly is an impressive dive site which can have a truly stunning unique combination of life to be witnessed  On any day.

Raja Ampat is truly a diver’s dream. Many dive sites offer something extraordinary and unique. What also makes diving in Raja Ampat so special is you never know what you’re going to see on any given day at any dive site. The abundance of life is simply hard to believe. The three dive sites I have picked are truly living up to what Raja Ampat diving is about. Raja Ampat definitely offers some of the best tropical reef scuba diving on our planet. I hope by reading this blog, you will get a better understanding of just how unbelievable the diving in Raja Ampat is. If you do dive in Raja Ampat, enjoy. It is a life-changing experience.

Camera and lense used to create the images: Sony A7IV and Sony FE 12-24mm F4 G , purchase below-

camera- Sony A7IV

lense- Sony FE 12-24mm F4 G